Monday, September 28, 2009

Winning Designs in China: Standing Out to Fit In

The Chinese consumer is becoming increasingly modern and internationalized. However, while "egos" and ambitions are huge, the "new generation" is not becoming "individualistic" in the Western sense -- i.e., the peoples never define themselves independent of society. The middle class, those who can afford non-essential items, is torn between two impulses. The first is projection of status which leads to a desire to be noticed (in public contexts), aggressive self-expression and experimentation with new modes of style and design. The second, in vivid contrast to the projection, is protection, a fear of sticking out too obviously or challenging existing hierarchies and social restrictions. The Chinese saying -- "the leading goose gets shot down" -- is as true today as it was yesterday. People want to "advance," be acknowledged by society as "special" but they can not afford to be too ahead of the crowd. Western-style individualism is like Eve's apple -- succulent, enticing, desired. Biting into it, however, risks banishment to the Land of Outcasts. 

Across a broad swathe of categories, the conflict between standing out and fitting in manifests itself in design and product preference. As a result, there are a few basic rules that should be followed. But we must recognize two caveats. First, willingness to accept less conservative expression of identity is greater: a) within younger age groups who are more accepting of "Western" style (e.g., tattoos, piercing, "business casual") than older cohorts and b) across primary cities (Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou and Shenzhen) than second, third and forth-tier cities. Second, it is possible to "push the curve," to encourage Chinese to experiment with more audacious new fashion. However, this must be done gingerly, incrementally, without crossing an invisible line of overt "rebellion." Brashly grabbing attention -- a la American Idol's Adam Lambert -- is a no-no, irrespective of age, education or economic background.

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